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Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Friday, May 21, 2010

Buttons Raise Funds for GS8

ButtonMakers.net Sponsors the 2010 Georgetown Super 8 Film Festival




The folks over at GS8 put on a festival every year featuring amateur, unedited, un-juried films shot on Super 8. The whole neighborhood comes out and comes together. It's really amazing. Plus the money raised goes toward a neighborhood arts grant.

This year ButtonMakers.net helped out by donating a rental and supplies to the festival. They made these awesome "metallic" magnets in the 1 inch machine by printing the design backwards on transparencies. (More about the technique later.)

BUTTONS = DONATIONS

This metal drop box was placed in the neighborhood coffee shop. They just put up a sign to "take a magnet, leave a dollar" and watched the $ roll in. They were able to bring in several hundred dollars in just over a month. It was absolutely the most effective, fund-raising effort the festival did, while at the same time requiring the least amount of legwork!


METALLIC BUTTONS



One way to snazz up your button designs is to print them out on transparencies. This way the metal shell shows through and makes it look all shiny and cool.

When you do this, you'll want to print out your graphic backwards. That way you can place the transparency on the shell ink or toner side down to protect the graphic. You don't even need to use mylar!




To flip your image in Photoshop, use the Image -> Image Rotation -> Flip Horizontal option as shown in the image to the left. If you're not familiar with laying out pages on one Layer this way, you might want to download our templates and check out the tutorial on using Patterns.









In OpenOffice you can flip your image by right clicking or CTRL-clicking on it and selecting Flip -> Horizontally. In OpenOffice you have to remember to flip your graphic before laying out the whole page.

If you have a good printer you may also be able to flip the image in the printer settings as well.

When you're pressing metallic buttons you want to make sure that the image prints backwards, the ink is totally dry, and you load the graphic into the machine with the graphic toward the shell. That way it reads properly and the ink side is facing the shell (not out and exposed to the elements). You don't want to use mylar for metallic buttons either. Sometimes when you put two pieces of plastic together you get that weird rainbow pattern, and that's not what we want.


Monday, February 08, 2010

New Photoshop Templates

New Photoshop Button Design Templates!
(don't have photoshop? use Open Office)


Check out our new button design templates for Photoshop. Thanks to a blog comment suggestion from user merrow, I went ahead and made these new templates, using Patterns instead of Actions. If you love the old style with the Actions and everything for some reason, they are still available here.

These templates are the correct size so that you can fill an 8x10 size page with them perfectly. We're using 8x10 so you can print it on an 8.5x11 sheet of paper without cutting off any designs. The "Minimized Margins" files are made to fill an 8.5x11 page and should only be used if your printer can print full 8.5x11 pages.



Click here to download the full resolution video

1. First download the template you need from the list below. These downloads are in zip files. After unzipping the file, you should have a PSD file. Open the file in Photoshop.

2. Make your design as you see fit. Leave the "Cut Line" layer visible and on top. Turn off the "Face Line" layer once you're finished with the design. You can replace our "perimeter text" with your web address or copyright info. This text shows up on the edge of your finished button. If your not using the perimeter text you can turn off those layers. Save the design when you're done.

3. Once you're totally finished with the design, select "Edit" > "Define Pattern" in Photoshop. Give the pattern a name, and click "OK."

4. Open a new document "File" > "New". Set it to 8x10 inches and 300 PPI.

5. Now, we'll fill the document with the design Pattern. Select "Edit" > "Fill". Select "Pattern" from the drop down menu, and choose your design from the "Custom Pattern" drop down. Click "OK"

That's it! See that was totally easier than using Actions! :P

Download the template for your size below:

Standard Circular Buttons:
7/8"
1"
1-1/4"
1-1/2"
1-3/4"
2"
2-1/4"
2-1/2"
3"
3-1/2"

Squares and Rectangles:
1-1/2x1-1/2"
1-1/2x1-1/2" diamond
2x3"
2-1/2"x3-1/2"

Minimized Margins (only use if you can print a full 8.5x11 page with minimal margins)
2-1/4"
3"

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

How to Design a Button Badge using Open Office

Free Design Software!

(Rather use Photoshop? Click Here)

Need to design a button? Don't have photoshop or illustrator or corel draw? No problem! Just download OpenOffice for free and get started using Draw!! If you find Draw to be useful for you (especially if you're in business using it), please consider making a donation to OpenOffice.org. Thanks!!

Take a look at this video tutorial for help.

Click here to download the video in it's full resolution and view it full screen.

The video is based on a 2-1/4 inch button design, but you can use Draw for any size. Below is a list of button sizes cut line diameters and face line diameters:

7/8 inch -
Cut Line: 1.2" Face Line: 0.875"

1 inch -
Cut Line: 1.31" Face Line: 1"

1-1/4 inch -
Cut Line: 1.63" Face Line: 1.25"

1-1/2 inch -
Cut Line: 1.84" Face Line: 1.5"

1-3/4 inch -
Cut Line: 2.01" Face Line: 1.75"

2 inch -
Cut Line: 2.42" Face Line: 2"

2-1/4 inch -
Cut Line: 2.63" Face Line: 2.25"

2-1/2 inch -
Cut Line: 2.92" Face Line: 2.5"

3 inch -
Cut Line: 3.45" Face Line: 3"

3-1/2 inch -
Cut Line: 4" Face Line: 3.5"

6 inch -
Cut Line: 6.66" Face Line: 6"

Oval -
Cut Line: 2.33" x 3.25" Face Line: 1.75" x 2.75"

1-1/2 Square -
Cut Line: 2.2" x 2.2" Face Line: 1.5" x 1.5"

2x3 Rectangle -
Cut Line: 2.77" x 3.77" Face Line: 2"x3"

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

How to Make a 1 inch Button - Video!

How to Make a 1 inch Button
Video!


Check me out, getting my video on! You should check this out even if you know how to make buttons already. There's some special tips at the end. :D

Friday, May 30, 2008

Button Gimp

Button GIMP.

Recent Update: OpenOffice.org's Draw is easier to use than GIMP for page layout stuff (and is also free). You might still want to download GIMP for more involved photo manipulation. But if you just want to get a simple button design on a page, save yourself a headache and use OpenOffice instead.





Gimp is the GNU Image Manipulation Program. It has a lot of the same features as Photoshop, but unlike Photoshop, it's FREE. It's an open source application, which means there is no support except from dedicated community members. If you have trouble using the software, you'll have to research the problem and reach out to community members on forums. Other than that, you are on your own.

GIMP doesn't have proper printer drivers. If you're a programmer type you can install Gutenprint here. If you're not, you will need to install another program from which to do your printing - such as IrfranView (also free).

Natively GIMP doesn't come with installers. You can read more about this on the official GIMP website. Most people are going to need installers, so you should download GIMP from the following site:

Download GIMP here
(Windows users only. Gimp is available for Mac too, but the installation process is pretty involved. I'll be posting another blog about Gimp for Mac at a later time.)

Button Templates for GIMP:
1 inch
1-1/4 inch
1-1/2 inch
1-3/4 inch
2 inch
2-1/4 inch
2-1/2 inch
3 inch
3-1/2 inch


1. Download and install GIMP.

2. Download the template file for your size (links above) and save it to the folder of your choice on your hard drive. I saved mine to the My Pictures folder. The template file is a layered .xcf file that can only be opened in Gimp.

3. Launch GIMP. GIMP looks a little different from most application windows you might be used to. Each component of Gimp is it's own window with it's own menu bar at the top. There is not one single program window as you might normally see. Take a moment to get a feel for this. If you're a computer novice, you might have trouble with everything 'disappearing' because you clicked outside one of the Gimp element windows. If this is happening to you, just close all other applications before starting Gimp.
As shown in the example photo, when you first launch Gimp you will see a tools dialog, and that's it.

4. Click on "File" at the top of the tools dialog and select "Open." In the dialog box that appears navigate to the location on your hard drive where you saved your template file. Once you locate the template file you downloaded earlier, click on it and then click "Open".



5. When you successfully open the template file, you will see a white "canvas" area with two black circles. The outer one is your "cut line" and the inner one is the "face line". You should keep your important design elements inside the inner circle.




6. Next we need to view the "layers" of the file. On the "canvas" window select "Dialogs" and click "Layers". This will open the "layers" dialog box.




You should now be able to see the separate components of the file. You can make a new layer by clicking the sheet of paper icon on the bottom left of the dialog. You can turn the layers on and off using the eyeball icon next to them. You can drag them to the little trash can icon on the bottom right of the dialog if you want to delete a layer. You can drag the layers up or down to change how they are arranged on your canvas. For example, you could make your designs on a new layer, but you would need to place it underneath the face line layer, so you can see the line you need to stay within.

7. Design your graphic. For this example, I am dropping a photo into the layout and adding some text on top. So my next step is to open the photo.

Click on "File" and select "Open" navigate to the area on your hard drive where the image is stored. Select the image and click the "Open" button.



8. Resize the photo. Now that I have my photo open, I need to scale it down. Usually photos are very high resolution so they can be printed very large. Buttons are relatively small and don't require as much resolution. If I were to paste this image on to my button template without scaling it first, it would be enormous and difficult to work with.

On the photo window menu bar click on "Image" and select "Scale Image". In my example, I'm using the 1 inch template. At 300 DPI, the printable area on a 1 inch button is only 300x300 pixels. For some safety and wiggle room, I decide to scale my photo down to 400 pixels on the short side - making my image 400x600 pixels.

Enter the pixel dimensions for your size into the "Scale Image" dialog box and click the "Scale" button.



9. Now that the photo is a manageable size, I can paste it into the button layout. But first we have to add a new layer to the button template. Click on the button template to bring it to the foreground. Then click on the piece of paper icon at the bottom left of the layers dialog.

Now we're ready to paste the photo into the template.
On the photo window click on "Edit" and select "Copy".
Next click on the button layout window to bring it to the foreground. On the button layout window click on the new the new layer in the "layers" dialog to select it. Then click on "Edit" and select "Paste".

Use the Move tool to move the photo around until it is positioned where you want it. (The move tool is the cross arrows located on the far right side, second row of the tools dialog).

10. Close the photo, and DO NOT save it.

11. Next, we'll add some text. In the "tools" dialog select the Text tool (the big black A button.) Click anywhere on the template and start typing. You can change the color and font using the options that appear at the bottom of the "tools" dialog.

Move the text around with the move tool until you have it properly positioned.

12. Save your work. Click "File" and select "Save As" select a location on your hard drive and give the file a new name. It's always a good idea to keep your files in their layered state in case you want to make changes later.




13. Get rid of extraneous layers and prepare for printing. You don't want the face line to print, so you once you have a version with the face line in tact saved, you can go ahead and drag that layer to the small trash can icon at the bottom of the layers dialog. We then need to merge the remaining layers. Click on the top layer to select it. Then click "Layer" and select "Merge Down." Repeat the merging until you have only one layer total.

14. Get rid of excess image. In my case, some of the image goes outside my circular template lines. This really isn't a problem except for the wasted ink that will occur when it goes to print. So I'm going to go ahead and turn the corners white. To do this, I select the "Ellipse Select" tool (the oval shaped tool). Click on the top left corner of the canvas, then hold down your shift key (to maintain a perfect circle) and drag to the bottom right corner. This should make a perfect circular selection. Then we need to invert it. Click "Select" on the tool bar and select "Invert"
Finally, fill the selection with white. Make sure your foreground color is white. (The foreground and background color boxes are located under the tools in the tools dialog. If the foreground is not set to white, double click on it and select white.) Then click "Edit" and select "Fill with FG color. (FG stands for foreground).

15. Crop the image to size. In this case, there is some extra image that flows over my canvas area. This will show up when I paste it onto a bigger canvas, so I have to crop it out. Select the crop tool (the knife icon). Click and drag from the top right corner of the canvas to the bottom left. Then double click in the middle.




16. Click on "File" and select "New". When the Create New Image dialog box comes up, change "pixels" to "inches" using the drop down menu. Enter 8.5 in the width field and 11 in the height. This will open a new, blank 8.5 x 11 page on which we will paste our button graphics and print.




17. Click the button layout window to bring it forward. Then click on "Edit" and select "Copy". Click on the page window to bring it forward and select "Edit" then "Paste". Select the Move tool and drag the pasted image to the top right corner. Then select "Edit" - "Paste" (or CTRL-V on your keyboard) again. It will paste the second image directly on top of the one you just pasted. With the move tool, click on the button graphic and drag it down. Keep pasting and dragging until you've filled the page with button graphics.

18. Merge all of the layers together. Select "Layer" then "Merge Down." Repeat this step until you have no more layers. Then select "File" - "Save As". Select JPEG from the drop down menu and change the file name to something you can remember. Make sure to add the .jpg file extension to the end.

19. Open IrfanView. Select "File" - "Open" locate the file you just saved in Gimp and select "File" - "Print"







If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions please feel free to post them here.



Friday, February 22, 2008

1 inch magnets REVISED

How to make a 1 inch magnet
(You can skip to the bottom of this post for the actual tutorial.)

But first lots of superfluous information:

Okay, so here is the whole story about 1 inch magnets. It used to be that you had to make a medallion button using a crimp adapter in your model 100 and then stick on a little 1/2 inch adhesive magnet to the back. They were cheap, but not too easy to do. Also the little 1/2 inch magnets weren't very strong. One day I got a call from one of my favorite customers over at Amoeba Music asking if there was any way to get better looking and stronger 1 inch magnets.

This got me to experimenting. I was looking at the magnets used for 1-1/4 inch magnets, and on a whim tried to cram one into the back of a 1 inch button (made with a collet like a standard button, not made as a medallion). And so the "1 inch Deluxe" magnet was born.

But people started complaining that it was too hard to insert the magnet into the collet after the fact, as I had originally posted in my instructions. Then I got the call that changed everything! I forget the customer name, but she, smarter than I, figured out that you just put the magnet in the collet IN THE MACHINE and then press the button. I had a serious DUH! moment because this is the same procedure one would use to make a mirror. This is why I haven't answered any of the questions on the original 1 inch magnet post. I am about to remove it and replace with this one.

The Tutorial Starts Here


First, get every thing you need together. For 1 inch magnets you need:
Step 1: Insert the shell, smooth side up, into the take up die (the one thats on the left when the die table is perpendicular to the base plate.)





Step 2: Insert the graphic on top of the shell

Step 3: Insert the mylar on top of the graphic.

Step 4: Rotate the die table around.



Step 5: Insert the collet, sharp side up, into the crimp die.








Step 6: Insert the magnet, magnetic side down, into the center of the collet in the crimp die. You do not need to remove the back or expose the adhesive. The adhesive part of this magnet is only used for 1-1/4 inch magnets. In the 1 inch machine, the collet holds the magnet in place, it does not need to be adhesive.



Make sure to center the magnet very carefully. It's easy to do since it's a magnet and it sticks to the metal die. But you should still pay attention because if it's off center, your magnet won't crimp.




Step 7: Press your magnet as usual. Pull the handle all the way down toward you, rotate the die table around and pull the handle all the way down toward you a second time. Just like normal.





Step 8: Remove your finished magnet from the machine and marvel at how smooth and professional it looks and how easy it was to make. :)

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Mirror Christmas Ornaments

Make your own Christmas Ornaments this year
And Make them Mirrored!


Warning: This project and others on this blog have not been approved by the manufacturer of these machines. Try this at your own risk.

Prerequisite for this project: how to make a standard mirror


Question: What could possibly be a better gift than a hand made, beloved family photo x-mas tree ornament button?

Answer: A hand made, beloved family photo x-mas tree ornament with a mirror back instead of a button!

Take a look at last years ornament project. That one was super simple. Either a) just stick a button on a tree, or b) use a Welded Eye insert (in place of a pin) and ornament wire and presto! you've made an ornament.

While last years ornament was nice, easy, and practical, this year we decided to one-up ourselves and attach wire to a mirror for hanging. Mirror ornaments look great from both sides, they are more glamorous than buttons, and they add life and sparkle to your tree. But how does one go about attaching a wire for hanging? I pondered this most of the year in preparation for the holidays. I got everything together, got out the drill with ity bity drill bits, extra button parts, x-acto blades, hot glue, and a dremel. I got all prepared to experiment and fail when Rex came over and did something so incredibly simple, I had to smack myself on the head and yell DUH! at the sky.



Here's what we did:

1. All you need is:



2. Turn the die table to it's horizontal position so that you can see both dies (as shown). Load the shell, smooth side up, into the pick-up die on the left.







3. Insert the graphic on top of the shell and center it so that it is right side up, and facing you and you can properly read any text on the graphic.







4. Insert the mylar on top of the graphic.









5. Insert the collet, sharp side up, into the crimp die on the right.








6. Insert the mirror, face down inside the collet.









7. Bend the shim as shown. It should be bent enough to hold the mirror taught in the finished button, but not so tall that it gets bumped off center when the crimp die goes under the upper die.






8. Place the bent shim on the back of the mirror as shown.









9. Rotate the die table so the pick-up die is under the upper die and pull the handle all the way down toward you. (Just like you would if you were making a normal button). Then rotate the die around again so the crimp die is under the upper die, but don't press it just yet!





10. Bend the ornament wire as shown.









11. Insert the ornament wire in between the crimp die and the upper die, taking care not to bump the shim off center.

Tip: if you're having trouble with this step, try scotch taping the wire to the shim.





12. Pull the handle down toward you, just as though you were pressing a normal button.








That's it! The wire should be firmly pinched in between the the collet and the shell. There's usually a little dimpling at the top and a slightly bent wire, but it's a better than drilling holes or hot glue that's for sure!

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Key Chain Sets

The Model 225 Button Machine is the only one that has it's own dedicated key chain sets. (All of the other sizes use the Key Chain Add-On's that are used in addition to your existing button parts.)
The 2-1/4 inch Complete Key Chain Sets are "complete" in that they come with shells, mylar, chain style key rings, and special key chain backs. The backs are flat with a slot at the top.

Here's how you make 2-1/4 inch Key Chains:

1. Get everything you need together. That includes a model 225 Button Machine, a model 2625 graphic punch or adjustable rotary cutter or scissors, complete 2-1/4 inch key chain sets, and a graphic.






2. Cut your printed graphic into a 2.625 inch circle.

3. Insert the shell into the pick-up die (the one with the deep groove in the center). Then insert the graphic on top of the shell. Make sure the graphic is face up and centered so you can read it. Insert the mylar on top of the graphic.








4. Rotate the die table around so that the crimp die is facing you and the pick-up die is under the upper die.








5. Next make sure the slot in the back piece is at the top. Insert it into the machine sharp side up.








6. Pull the handle toward you and press it all the way down. Rotate the die table around so the crimp die is under the upper die and pull the handle again - just like making a normal button.

7. Remove the key chain from the machine and insert the key chain component into the slot at the top as shown.