Wednesday, August 12, 2009

How to Design a Button Badge using Open Office

Free Design Software!

Need to design a button? Don't have photoshop or illustrator or corel draw? No problem! Just download OpenOffice for free and get started using Draw!! If you find Draw to be useful for you (especially if you're in business using it), please consider making a donation to OpenOffice.org. Thanks!!

Take a look at this video tutorial for help.
video
Click here to download the video in it's full resolution and view it full screen.

The video is based on a 2-1/4 inch button design, but you can use Draw for any size. Below is a list of button sizes cut line diameters and face line diameters:

7/8 inch -
Cut Line: 1.2" Face Line: 0.875"

1 inch -
Cut Line: 1.31" Face Line: 1"

1-1/4 inch -
Cut Line: 1.63" Face Line: 1.25"

1-1/2 inch -
Cut Line: 1.84" Face Line: 1.5"

1-3/4 inch -
Cut Line: 2.01" Face Line: 1.75"

2 inch -
Cut Line: 2.42" Face Line: 2"

2-1/4 inch -
Cut Line: 2.63" Face Line: 2.25"

2-1/2 inch -
Cut Line: 2.92" Face Line: 2.5"

3 inch -
Cut Line: 3.45" Face Line: 3"

3-1/2 inch -
Cut Line: 4" Face Line: 3.5"

6 inch -
Cut Line: 6.66" Face Line: 6"

Oval -
Cut Line: 2.33" x 3.25" Face Line: 1.75" x 2.75"

1-1/2 Square -
Cut Line: 2.2" x 2.2" Face Line: 1.5" x 1.5"

2x3 Rectangle -
Cut Line: 2.77" x 3.77" Face Line: 2"x3"

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

How to Make a 1 inch Button - Video!

How to Make a 1 inch Button
Video!


Check me out, getting my video on! You should check this out even if you know how to make buttons already. There's some special tips at the end. :D

video

Monday, June 08, 2009

New Magnets More Awesome Than Before!

New Magnets
More Awesome Than Before!

Newer, better, sleeker, sexier (can buttons be sexy... ?) than ever before, introducing the new 1-1/4 inch magnets!!!!!!!!!!!
These new sets are made with collets. The adhesive magnet goes inside the button after it's pressed. It sticks to the inside of the shell and lays flat with the collet.

It's way better than the old style. The old sets were made with a regular old button back that had the pin removed, as if you had just crafted your way from buttons to magnets. These new improved puppies make your model 125 machine feel like it was made for magnets!

Just look at the difference. Now that's a sexy magnet if I ever saw one.

We've basically discontinued the old style in favor of this newer, flatter magnet. But if you want to stick with the old style for some reason (the new ones are slightly more expensive) you can assemble a set of 100 from the bits and pieces section. You'll need shells, mylar, unpinned backs, and 3/4 diameter adhesive magnets. You'll have to contact us for pricing on quantities over 100 for the old style.


Next up are the new 7/8" ceramic magnets!

These are cool because they use the really strong ceramic magnets. They're made by placing the magnet inside the collet in the model 875 button machine when pressing the button, so there are no extra steps and no adhesives! And they're really really strong. Yippee!!

Step by step instructions will be coming soon.


Monday, January 12, 2009

Introducing Itty Bitty 7/8 inch buttons

Cute As a Button!
Introducing the itty bitty new button size:
7/8 inches!!!!

Measuring in at a mere 0.875 inches (22.225 mm) our new 7/8 inch button is the smallest member of the pinned back button family ever!

It uses the copper wire lock-pin just like the 1 inch buttons and is made the same way too.

Model 875 kits are available for sale now on ButtonMakers.net!! Check it out and send me photos of your tiny creations!!!!

Monday, October 27, 2008

ButtonMakers Customer Makes the News!!

One of our favorite customers Majid Al-Bahadli and his button maker made it on the local news last night! Check it out!!


Click the pic to see the vid




Friday, May 30, 2008

Button Gimp

Button GIMP.

Recent Update: OpenOffice.org's Draw is easier to use than GIMP for page layout stuff (and is also free). You might still want to download GIMP for more involved photo manipulation. But if you just want to get a simple button design on a page, save yourself a headache and use OpenOffice instead.





Gimp is the GNU Image Manipulation Program. It has a lot of the same features as Photoshop, but unlike Photoshop, it's FREE. It's an open source application, which means there is no support except from dedicated community members. If you have trouble using the software, you'll have to research the problem and reach out to community members on forums. Other than that, you are on your own.

GIMP doesn't have proper printer drivers. If you're a programmer type you can install Gutenprint here. If you're not, you will need to install another program from which to do your printing - such as IrfranView (also free).

Natively GIMP doesn't come with installers. You can read more about this on the official GIMP website. Most people are going to need installers, so you should download GIMP from the following site:

Download GIMP here
(Windows users only. Gimp is available for Mac too, but the installation process is pretty involved. I'll be posting another blog about Gimp for Mac at a later time.)

Button Templates for GIMP:
1 inch
1-1/4 inch
1-1/2 inch
1-3/4 inch
2 inch
2-1/4 inch
2-1/2 inch
3 inch
3-1/2 inch


1. Download and install GIMP.

2. Download the template file for your size (links above) and save it to the folder of your choice on your hard drive. I saved mine to the My Pictures folder. The template file is a layered .xcf file that can only be opened in Gimp.

3. Launch GIMP. GIMP looks a little different from most application windows you might be used to. Each component of Gimp is it's own window with it's own menu bar at the top. There is not one single program window as you might normally see. Take a moment to get a feel for this. If you're a computer novice, you might have trouble with everything 'disappearing' because you clicked outside one of the Gimp element windows. If this is happening to you, just close all other applications before starting Gimp.
As shown in the example photo, when you first launch Gimp you will see a tools dialog, and that's it.

4. Click on "File" at the top of the tools dialog and select "Open." In the dialog box that appears navigate to the location on your hard drive where you saved your template file. Once you locate the template file you downloaded earlier, click on it and then click "Open".



5. When you successfully open the template file, you will see a white "canvas" area with two black circles. The outer one is your "cut line" and the inner one is the "face line". You should keep your important design elements inside the inner circle.




6. Next we need to view the "layers" of the file. On the "canvas" window select "Dialogs" and click "Layers". This will open the "layers" dialog box.




You should now be able to see the separate components of the file. You can make a new layer by clicking the sheet of paper icon on the bottom left of the dialog. You can turn the layers on and off using the eyeball icon next to them. You can drag them to the little trash can icon on the bottom right of the dialog if you want to delete a layer. You can drag the layers up or down to change how they are arranged on your canvas. For example, you could make your designs on a new layer, but you would need to place it underneath the face line layer, so you can see the line you need to stay within.

7. Design your graphic. For this example, I am dropping a photo into the layout and adding some text on top. So my next step is to open the photo.

Click on "File" and select "Open" navigate to the area on your hard drive where the image is stored. Select the image and click the "Open" button.



8. Resize the photo. Now that I have my photo open, I need to scale it down. Usually photos are very high resolution so they can be printed very large. Buttons are relatively small and don't require as much resolution. If I were to paste this image on to my button template without scaling it first, it would be enormous and difficult to work with.

On the photo window menu bar click on "Image" and select "Scale Image". In my example, I'm using the 1 inch template. At 300 DPI, the printable area on a 1 inch button is only 300x300 pixels. For some safety and wiggle room, I decide to scale my photo down to 400 pixels on the short side - making my image 400x600 pixels.

Enter the pixel dimensions for your size into the "Scale Image" dialog box and click the "Scale" button.



9. Now that the photo is a manageable size, I can paste it into the button layout. But first we have to add a new layer to the button template. Click on the button template to bring it to the foreground. Then click on the piece of paper icon at the bottom left of the layers dialog.

Now we're ready to paste the photo into the template.
On the photo window click on "Edit" and select "Copy".
Next click on the button layout window to bring it to the foreground. On the button layout window click on the new the new layer in the "layers" dialog to select it. Then click on "Edit" and select "Paste".

Use the Move tool to move the photo around until it is positioned where you want it. (The move tool is the cross arrows located on the far right side, second row of the tools dialog).

10. Close the photo, and DO NOT save it.

11. Next, we'll add some text. In the "tools" dialog select the Text tool (the big black A button.) Click anywhere on the template and start typing. You can change the color and font using the options that appear at the bottom of the "tools" dialog.

Move the text around with the move tool until you have it properly positioned.

12. Save your work. Click "File" and select "Save As" select a location on your hard drive and give the file a new name. It's always a good idea to keep your files in their layered state in case you want to make changes later.




13. Get rid of extraneous layers and prepare for printing. You don't want the face line to print, so you once you have a version with the face line in tact saved, you can go ahead and drag that layer to the small trash can icon at the bottom of the layers dialog. We then need to merge the remaining layers. Click on the top layer to select it. Then click "Layer" and select "Merge Down." Repeat the merging until you have only one layer total.

14. Get rid of excess image. In my case, some of the image goes outside my circular template lines. This really isn't a problem except for the wasted ink that will occur when it goes to print. So I'm going to go ahead and turn the corners white. To do this, I select the "Ellipse Select" tool (the oval shaped tool). Click on the top left corner of the canvas, then hold down your shift key (to maintain a perfect circle) and drag to the bottom right corner. This should make a perfect circular selection. Then we need to invert it. Click "Select" on the tool bar and select "Invert"
Finally, fill the selection with white. Make sure your foreground color is white. (The foreground and background color boxes are located under the tools in the tools dialog. If the foreground is not set to white, double click on it and select white.) Then click "Edit" and select "Fill with FG color. (FG stands for foreground).

15. Crop the image to size. In this case, there is some extra image that flows over my canvas area. This will show up when I paste it onto a bigger canvas, so I have to crop it out. Select the crop tool (the knife icon). Click and drag from the top right corner of the canvas to the bottom left. Then double click in the middle.




16. Click on "File" and select "New". When the Create New Image dialog box comes up, change "pixels" to "inches" using the drop down menu. Enter 8.5 in the width field and 11 in the height. This will open a new, blank 8.5 x 11 page on which we will paste our button graphics and print.




17. Click the button layout window to bring it forward. Then click on "Edit" and select "Copy". Click on the page window to bring it forward and select "Edit" then "Paste". Select the Move tool and drag the pasted image to the top right corner. Then select "Edit" - "Paste" (or CTRL-V on your keyboard) again. It will paste the second image directly on top of the one you just pasted. With the move tool, click on the button graphic and drag it down. Keep pasting and dragging until you've filled the page with button graphics.

18. Merge all of the layers together. Select "Layer" then "Merge Down." Repeat this step until you have no more layers. Then select "File" - "Save As". Select JPEG from the drop down menu and change the file name to something you can remember. Make sure to add the .jpg file extension to the end.

19. Open IrfanView. Select "File" - "Open" locate the file you just saved in Gimp and select "File" - "Print"







If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions please feel free to post them here.



Thursday, May 22, 2008

Photographers Make Photo Buttons

Making Photo Buttons at Events

I run a photography company in addition to Button Makers. However, I'd never put the two together until a very sweet lady came into my store and asked if I knew anyone who does photo buttons for parties. "Well..." I thought to myself "I can do that..."

The only piece of equipment I needed to buy was a portable photo printer. I settled on a Canon Selphy 740. I choose the Selphy because it's small, portable, and fast. It's not the battery operated model, but I need power for my lighting setup anyway. I went with Canon because I can connect my camera directly to the printer without going through a laptop. However, while on the job, I quickly discovered that you cannot shoot while the printer is printing from the camera! Yeah, uh, probably should have tested that one ahead of time! It was tough explaining to a bunch of exuberant party-goers "Sorry! I can't take your photo for another minute and a half..."

I've heard other photographers say that they bring several memory cards and shoot with one while printing from the other. I wouldn't want to go that route though because at the job I did, people kept coming up to me asking for a duplicate of a button I'd made 30 minutes ago, and I would not want to have to rummage through all my cards using the tiny LCD on the printer trying to find that persons particular shot.

I would recommend bringing a laptop. My canon 5D has a remote capture feature that dumps the image directly on to the computer hard drive (instead of the memory card). This is really draining on the battery though, so I would also need the DC coupler to plug the camera in to a power source.

Exchanging the cards between each shot so you can print while shooting, seems really cumbersome to me (and potentially dangerous too. Removing the card before the camera is done saving is sure path to irrecoverable image corruption!) So remote capture software is definitely the way to go. But if you had no other choice, I'm sure card swapping is doable.

My full equipment list looked (or would look, had I brought a laptop) something like this:

laptop
laptop power supply
mouse
camera body
lenses
compact flash cards
DC coupler
spare battery
flash (back up in case remote transmitter fails)
spare flash batteries
remote flash transmitter
remote flash receiver
spare remote transmitter battery
tripod
tripod quick release
back up sync cables (in case remote transmitter fails)
strobe 1 (I use Alien Bees)
strobe 2
2 umbrellas
2 strobe bells
2 strobe cables
2 light stands
extension cord
power strip
spare flash bulbs
2 backdrop stands
1 backdrop extension pole
backdrop (s)
4-6 sandbags
gaff tape
clamps
printer
extra paper/ink packs (500 total)
paper cartridge
power supply
mini to standard USB cable
standard printer USB cable
USB extension cable
trash bag
Model 350 Photo Button Maker
Model 4000 Graphic Punch
500 Complete Button Sets
500 Easel Back Add Ons
table (this was provided by the party planners)
folding hand truck

Miraculously, I was able to get all of it onto the cart and/or my person for carrying. I didn't have any time to shoot a proper photo of my setup, but I managed to snag a couple of snaps during a slower moment - which was rare!

The event was a total success and the buttons were a major hit. The party was for teens around 12-16 years old. They couldn't get enough of the buttons!! Many of the kids were so into the button machine they wanted to press their own photo buttons. One kid in particular made so many buttons, I slipped him a 20 at the end of the night!! I needed his help for sure.

If I were to get another job like this, I'd definitely bring an assistant.


The packages I offer for event photo buttons are as follows:

$685.00 for up to 100 buttons
or
$850.00 for up to 500 buttons

I usually commit to 5 hours at your standard party. My fees cover my take home pay, an assistant, and materials. If you had to buy all of the gear I listed, it would probably run you $5,000 - $6,000. Essentially you'd break even after 12 events or thereabouts. But you could always start with a stripped down setup: on-camera flash instead of strobes, a cheaper camera, no backdrop and no computer for example. You could also get a battery powered printer and just show up at street fairs, selling photo buttons for $5-$7 a pop. My mother in law is doing pretty well making photo buttons at dog shows with her little point and shoot camera and a battery powered Selphy.

In Seattle there are more photographers than I care to count. The competition is cutthroat and every one needs a niche. Photo buttons are a great niche for events, sports, and kids photography.

If you have any questions or comments please feel free to post them here!!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Buttons for Obama

Buttons For Obama
Obama Button Party in Seattle


Check out the photos from this awesome button party hosted by Jody Rodgers and Joann Edmonds-Rodgers, the duo behind Buttons4Obama.com.

Their site It is packed with information, resources, and inspiration. Go there, get involved, and help support Jody's venture to the National Convention!!



Jody owns a model 125 1-1/4 inch button maker. For this event he also rented a second 125 and a graphic punch, and stocked up on parts. (Sorry out-of-towners, rentals are only available in Seattle.)

He, and his gang of trusty volunteer Obama supporters descended upon Georgetown Liquor Company (a rad vegetarian restaurant that serves up delicious food named after sci-fi characters), armed with button machines, punches, scissors, print outs, and beers and cranked out buttons till they could no more.

The buttons they make are sent off to national campaign headquarters to be distributed during caucuses and primaries. They've made thousands of buttons so far and their not stopping there!

They'll be posting PDF sheets of their designs soon, so if you've got a button machine and want to get involved go to Buttons4Obama.com to connect with other dedicated Obama Button Makers!!


Tuesday, April 22, 2008

DIY Wedding Favors

Adorable DIY Wedding Favors!!
Put that Button Maker to use for fun wedding flare!!!


First up: The Super Cute Engagement Photo Magnet Bucket

As you may or may not already know, aside from ButtonMakers, I am also a full time portrait and wedding photographer.

As a nice little perk to my wedding packages I offer an engagement shoot and the most adorable little photo magnets you've ever seen in your life!!

But you don't have to book a photographer to make these cuties for your big day. Just break out your best shot, your button machine, some craft supplies, and you've just made yourself the most adorable wedding favor EVER!

The magnets pictured here are 1-1/2 inch. They cost $0.29 each ($29/hundred). I used 6 per bucket. I got the pails from Michaels for less than $0.99 each. Then I also needed a little bit of foam for the inside of the buckets, and some ribbon. I found these laying around the house. But even if you had to buy the foam and ribbon, it would still be less than $5 per bucket, not counting the price of the machine and punch. It's still a hell of a deal for personalized wedding favors!


Next, We Present: Blooming Buttons!

Okay, I admit I was having a major Martha moment when I came up with this one. You should have seen the way I was gushing when I found those itty bity terracotta flower pots!

With this project, we're using buttons instead of magnets. The idea is that the guests can take the button from the stem and wear it around.

You might need to include a little card with instructions like this: "Take the button off the stem. Wear it around to meet new friends."

While you could make personalized buttons for every guest, and it would be freaking hilarious to see someone wearing a "Therapist of the Groom" or "Personal Trainer of the Bride" buttons, that would be a tad impractical. So instead we made guest of honor 'flowers' and lined the bottom of the pot with green buttons that just say "Jeffrey hearts Heather." Jeffrey and Heather of course, being our fictional bride and groom.

For the stems, I just used small wooden dowel wrapped in yarn. (Actually, the dowels were skewers from a kabobfest I had a while back.) The yarn is really key, because it allows you to affix the pin back to the stem and keep the button in place. Plus it's really inexpensive and looks crafty and cute! I used green peas for the base in this photo, which admittedly didn't work out so well. I would definitely recommend potting foam for anyone doing this for an actual wedding. The leaves are plastic and came from the artificial flower section of Michaels.

I used 1-1/2 inch buttons for the 'flowers' and 1 inch buttons to fill the pot.












Last and Least Expensive: Bride Side / Groom Side Buttons!



This one is the simplest idea of them all and is a great way to help your wedding guests mingle and get to know one another.

Simply make buttons that say Bride Side and Groom Side! Coordinate the colors with the scheme of your wedding, and these little buttons will be the perfect touch to your perfect day!!

For these, I actually printed the flower pattern and text on transparencies. I used the transparency instead of mylar and used a piece of velum instead of a printed graphic. This allows the metal to shine through and gives it a nice creamy metallic look. It's a hard to capture in a photo, but it looks really nice in person.

As always, please feel free to post questions, comments, or ideas here. I love to hear from you!!

Friday, February 22, 2008

1 inch magnets REVISED

How to make a 1 inch magnet
(You can skip to the bottom of this post for the actual tutorial.)

But first lots of superfluous information:

Okay, so here is the whole story about 1 inch magnets. It used to be that you had to make a medallion button using a crimp adapter in your model 100 and then stick on a little 1/2 inch adhesive magnet to the back. They were cheap, but not too easy to do. Also the little 1/2 inch magnets weren't very strong. One day I got a call from one of my favorite customers over at Amoeba Music asking if there was any way to get better looking and stronger 1 inch magnets.

This got me to experimenting. I was looking at the magnets used for 1-1/4 inch magnets, and on a whim tried to cram one into the back of a 1 inch button (made with a collet like a standard button, not made as a medallion). And so the "1 inch Deluxe" magnet was born.

But people started complaining that it was too hard to insert the magnet into the collet after the fact, as I had originally posted in my instructions. Then I got the call that changed everything! I forget the customer name, but she, smarter than I, figured out that you just put the magnet in the collet IN THE MACHINE and then press the button. I had a serious DUH! moment because this is the same procedure one would use to make a mirror. This is why I haven't answered any of the questions on the original 1 inch magnet post. I am about to remove it and replace with this one.

The Tutorial Starts Here


First, get every thing you need together. For 1 inch magnets you need:
Step 1: Insert the shell, smooth side up, into the take up die (the one thats on the left when the die table is perpendicular to the base plate.)





Step 2: Insert the graphic on top of the shell

Step 3: Insert the mylar on top of the graphic.

Step 4: Rotate the die table around.



Step 5: Insert the collet, sharp side up, into the crimp die.








Step 6: Insert the magnet, magnetic side down, into the center of the collet in the crimp die. You do not need to remove the back or expose the adhesive. The adhesive part of this magnet is only used for 1-1/4 inch magnets. In the 1 inch machine, the collet holds the magnet in place, it does not need to be adhesive.



Make sure to center the magnet very carefully. It's easy to do since it's a magnet and it sticks to the metal die. But you should still pay attention because if it's off center, your magnet won't crimp.




Step 7: Press your magnet as usual. Pull the handle all the way down toward you, rotate the die table around and pull the handle all the way down toward you a second time. Just like normal.





Step 8: Remove your finished magnet from the machine and marvel at how smooth and professional it looks and how easy it was to make. :)

Friday, February 15, 2008

More fun with fabric buttons

More Fun with Fabric!

But first.... awesome button board stuff:

Since we opened an actual brick and mortar store (in Seattle's historic Georgetown neighborhood!) I've had to think of ways to decorate it. I had to come up with a way of displaying buttons. I quickly learned that old photo frame + foamcore + canvas = AWESOME Button Board!

I just covered a piece of foamcore with canvas. Then I used the canvas covered foamcore to replace the glass in a crappy old frame. I just bent the pin on the back of the buttons to a 90 degree angle and stuck it in.

Okay... on to the fun with fabric. Please see this post first, if you are not familiar with fabric buttons.


I went to Pacific Fabric Outlet and bought a bunch of fat quarters, which are basically just small squares of fabric. On Friday it's buy three get one free :) So I picked up a bunch of cute prints and I got out 5 different button machines to make this board. I used 1, 1-1/2, 2-1/4, 3 and 3-1/2 inch machines. If these sizes seem familiar it's because those are the sizes that are preset on the Adjustable Rotary Cutter, which I have decided is the ONLY WAY TO CUT CIRCLES FOR MAKING FABRIC BUTTONS. Alright, it's not the only way, you could use scissors also (I do not recommend the graphic punch, see this post if you're thinking about trying it.)

I started noticing this time that the more perfect my circles were, the better my buttons turned out. When my fabric circles were a little off, I had a much higher failure rate and more escaped edges (keep reading for a description of escaped edges).

For all of the fabric pictured here, fuzzy leopard print excluded, I had to use 2 layers of fabric to get the buttons to crimp properly. The fuzzy leopard print was thick enough to work flawlessly every time. I had about a 10% failure rate with all the other fabrics, even with the multiple layers. By failure, I mean that the fabric didn't crimp at all or tore in the machine.

A lot of the times with the double layer standard cotton fabrics, I had small area of fabric that was pinched in between the shell and the backing, but folded backwards, and didn't crimp all the way under the backing. I refer to this problem as escaped edges. I did not consider buttons with escaped edges as failures. I just trimmed them down and called it good. It's such a tiny little piece that is hardly noticeable at all on the back of the button. If escaped edges is a big problem for you, I would recommend having your machine adjusted for fabric. Sometimes if you cut the escaped edge too close to the button, it becomes un-pinched and therefore ruins the button. So be careful when trimming escaped edges!


I pressed out 58 buttons in all, had 5 that were completely unusable, 12 with escaped edges that I trimmed off and used anyway, and 41 totally perfect fabric buttons. I noticed that my model 225 had a better success rate than my other machines. It didn't seem to matter if I used a fabric or a paper base layer. It really depends on the fabric you're using and how smooth the inside of the dies on your particular machine are. Sometimes, like with the fuzzy leopard print, you just find the magical combination and it works every time. Other times, like with the cotton pink skull fabric, it just doesn't work as consistently and you have to keep trying.

Good luck with your projects and please feel free to comment here with any advice or new ideas!

Monday, January 21, 2008

Valentines Day Party Trivia Buttons

Valentines Day Party Trivia Buttons!!

What better way to get singles mingling than to have them search the shirts of other party-goers to find the answer to their clue?

You can make these buttons in advance and pass them out at the party, making sure there's an even number of clues and answers. When the guests solve the riddles, they get a prize! I just quickly threw together some cross-word type questions, but you could make make yours as kid friendly
or as hilariously adult friendly as you like.


I chose 1-3/4 inch
buttons so they are big enough for a sentence, but small enough to make my friends get close : ) You can download a printable PDF of my Valentines Day Party Trivia Buttons here.
Pinning buttons on partiers is a great way to get people talking. You could even play cupid and intentionally give a clue and an answer to your friends you want to set up.

Party buttons could work for all kinds of gatherings, company outings, even trade shows. Imagine a bunch of business men looking out for your company logo button to try to solve a puzzle. Talk about brand recognition!

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Mirror Christmas Ornaments

Make your own Christmas Ornaments this year
And Make them Mirrored!


Warning: This project and others on this blog have not been approved by the manufacturer of these machines. Try this at your own risk.

Prerequisite for this project: how to make a standard mirror


Question: What could possibly be a better gift than a hand made, beloved family photo x-mas tree ornament button?

Answer: A hand made, beloved family photo x-mas tree ornament with a mirror back instead of a button!

Take a look at last years ornament project. That one was super simple. Either a) just stick a button on a tree, or b) use a Welded Eye insert (in place of a pin) and ornament wire and presto! you've made an ornament.

While last years ornament was nice, easy, and practical, this year we decided to one-up ourselves and attach wire to a mirror for hanging. Mirror ornaments look great from both sides, they are more glamorous than buttons, and they add life and sparkle to your tree. But how does one go about attaching a wire for hanging? I pondered this most of the year in preparation for the holidays. I got everything together, got out the drill with ity bity drill bits, extra button parts, x-acto blades, hot glue, and a dremel. I got all prepared to experiment and fail when Rex came over and did something so incredibly simple, I had to smack myself on the head and yell DUH! at the sky.



Here's what we did:

1. All you need is:



2. Turn the die table to it's horizontal position so that you can see both dies (as shown). Load the shell, smooth side up, into the pick-up die on the left.







3. Insert the graphic on top of the shell and center it so that it is right side up, and facing you and you can properly read any text on the graphic.







4. Insert the mylar on top of the graphic.









5. Insert the collet, sharp side up, into the crimp die on the right.








6. Insert the mirror, face down inside the collet.









7. Bend the shim as shown. It should be bent enough to hold the mirror taught in the finished button, but not so tall that it gets bumped off center when the crimp die goes under the upper die.






8. Place the bent shim on the back of the mirror as shown.









9. Rotate the die table so the pick-up die is under the upper die and pull the handle all the way down toward you. (Just like you would if you were making a normal button). Then rotate the die around again so the crimp die is under the upper die, but don't press it just yet!





10. Bend the ornament wire as shown.









11. Insert the ornament wire in between the crimp die and the upper die, taking care not to bump the shim off center.

Tip: if you're having trouble with this step, try scotch taping the wire to the shim.





12. Pull the handle down toward you, just as though you were pressing a normal button.








That's it! The wire should be firmly pinched in between the the collet and the shell. There's usually a little dimpling at the top and a slightly bent wire, but it's a better than drilling holes or hot glue that's for sure!

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Fabric Mirrors

Yay for Fabric Mirrors!!!
Double Yay for Fabric Mirror Tutorials!!!!

If you're not familiar with making fabric buttons please see this post and this post before proceeding.

These are really fun! In this tutorial I'm using a lace shirt with sequins. So it's extra-pretty! Since it's lace you can see the metal shell underneath which gives it shine and an extra layer of pretty! Did I mention I love these???






1. First get everything you need together. That includes:








2. Set the rotary cutter to the appropriate size. Lucky for mirror makers the cutter has preset stops for 2-1/4, 3 and 3-1/2 inch circles. My fabric pattern doesn't require centering, so for this, I'm not using the centering template that comes with the cutter. To adjust thee cutter to 3 inches, you loosen the screw at the top and push the silver bar over one click in from the widest size. Go here for more information on using the rotary cutter.









3. Put the metal cutting plate under the fabric and stretch the fabric taunt. If there are a wrinkles it'll cause some hiccups in the cutting. Place the rotary cutter on the fabric with the metal plate underneath, push he handle down and rotate it around and around.
When you're cutting fabric you can kinda hear it when it's cut all the way through. It sounds like a crunchy sound as it's going through the fabric, then it sounds smooth when it's all the way through. You may have to go back and forth in opposing directions to make a good cut.



4. Insert the shell into the pick-up die (the one with the deep groove) and center the fabric on top of the shell.









5. Rotate the die table around so the pick-up die is under the upper die and the crimp die is facing you. Insert the collet sharp side up.










6. Insert the mirror reflective side down, in the center of the collet.









7. Bend the shim just enough so it's as tall as it can possibly (about 1/2 inch depending on the machine) be without being bumped out of place by the upper die.









8. Place the shim on the back of the mirror, so it is as centered as possible. Rotate the die table back and forth and make sure that the shim doesn't get bumped out of place when it goes under the upper die. It's important that it's perfectly center or your mirror won't crimp properly.









9. Rotate the die table so that the pick-up die (with the shell and fabric in it) are under the upper die. Pull the handle toward you. Then rotate the die table around so that the mirror and shim is under the upper die (make sure that the shim didn't move) and pull the handle down again.










That's it! just remove the mirror from the machine and marvel at how awesome you are!!

Fabric Adjustment

Important Information about Fabric Buttons:
To get a guarantee that your machine will work with fabric, you'll need to order the Fabric Adjustment with your machine and mail in a sample of the fabric you wish to use. If you do not do this there's no "guarantee" that it will work.

However, from personal experience, I'm pretty confident that most of our machines will do just fine. I've made fabric buttons on all 8 of our display machines and haven't encountered a problem I couldn't work through yet.

So - if you're crafty and into experimenting, I'd say just get a machine and go for it. If you run into problems, try some of these techniques:
  • Use thicker fabric
  • Add a couple more layers of fabric
  • Add a layer of paper under the fabric
  • Put mylar on top of the fabric

On the other hand - if you're going into business doing monogram buttons or something and need to make 1,000 fabric buttons in 2 days, you should go ahead and get the fabric adjustment.

You can get the fabric adjustment done to a machine you already own, but you'll also have to pay to ship it both ways so that can be pricey.

See this post for more fabric button info and a tutorial.